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Thursday, 20 August 2015

BUDAfknPEST

Budapest, my first real stop in Europe.

I decided to kick things off by staying at a highly regarded party hostel in the Pest city centre, Retox. Upon arriving, I got a great orientation by one of the chicks that works there; telling me about what to see and do, how to get around and what the city is like.

Just the look and feel of the city is so totally different to what I had grown used to.


That night I got talked into (didn't take much convincing) going on the Budapest Party Hostels boat cruise down the Danube on their private boat. After being in Asia so long I was totally blown away by the size of their boat - there is literally nothing like it down that end of the world! Apparently some four hundred people were on the boat that night!

$30aud got me the boat ride and a bottle of champagne. Good value. The view from the river against the lit up buildings on the Danube - in particular the Parliament building - was absolutely stunning.



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Despite feeling a little rough from the cheap champagne, I decided I had to do something. After checking into another hostel (Retox was full), I went to the House of Terror museum.

The House of Terror building (Andrássy út 60 as it was then known) itself was used heavily during the latter half of the 20th century as an interrogation and torture centre during the Soviet occupation of Hungary following WWII. The museum itself was set up to both commemorate and inform what was going on in Hungary during both the Nazi occupation during WWII and the Soviet occupation following it, way up until the late 80's.


The somewhat apt description by the girl from the hostel that told me about it was that "it explains why Hungarians are pissed off all the time". They copped it pretty hard during the 20th century, from losing a large portion of their land to neighbouring European countries, to the occupations I mentioned earlier.

The museum itself is very artsy and modern; everything is laid out very nicely and the area easy to navigate. Unfortunately photography is prohibited in the building so I can't show a lot.



The basement level is more-or-less an untouched replica of what was going on in this building during its heyday. Hangings, torture, imprisonment. It was an interesting and worthwhile visit, despite feeling a touch sorry for myself from the night before!

Rather than trying to make new friends at my new hostel I headed back to Retox to hang out with those I'd met the day before. Once again, I got roped into going out on their Ruin Bar pub crawl. Ruin bars are unique to Budapest - old derelict buildings that were long abandoned given new life through the form of flowing alcohol and music!


Unfortunately most of my time in these pubs was spent at the bar waiting for a drink rather than taking in the sights of the building I was in!

Later that night I accidentally discovered my new favourite drunk food - a Hungarian dish known as Lángos. It is a giant doughnut tasting fried flat bread topped with sour cream and grated cheese. I saw a local order one and my words were "I want that", excitedly pointing. 


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After a nice little sleep in I once more headed out to do something in the city. A non-profit organisation called Free Walking Tours runs daily (you guessed it) walking tours through Budapest.

We visited a few sights around the Pest side of the city (East of the Danube) before crossing the bridge into Buda to walk around Castle Hill. Despite the name, there are no real castles on castle hill.




One interesting fact that I remembered from the tour was the height of St Stephen's Basilica (first photo above) and the height of the Parliament building (the lit up one further up) are exactly the same at 96 metres. An interesting piece of symbolism I thought. 

===

Following Sziget I ventured out to see a natural spring bath - a popular pastime in Budapest. The one I chose was was the Széchenyi Thermal Bath complex, one of the biggest and probably most popular in Budapest. 

The complex has three different pools, one for swimming and two for general relaxing. One of the two is about the same temperature as a heated swimming pool while the other is a slightly toastier 37 degrees. 


The problem with being so popular is that it was very crowded! It was difficult to find a good spot to sit and relax, and the place is very noisy. I couldn't help but compare it to the onsen hot spring I visited in Japan - the onsen was much nicer! Still, while in Budapest it is something I had to check out, and I got in free with the Sziget CityPass I bought when I arrived. 

On the walk to the bath I visited Heroes' Square, a tribute to what I assume is various important political and wartime leaders in Hungarian history. 



Unfortunately the remainder of my time in Budapest after Sziget was somewhat dampened (pun intended) by a large storm that came through the day Sziget closed up. The streets were flooded, basement levels in buildings turned to swimming pools and blocks of the city lost all power ... including the hostel I was staying at. 

The last two nights in Budapest I was in a hostel with no power, meaning no wifi, no way to charge my electronics, no hot water, no lights in the toilets, no air con ... it wasn't fun. It even went as far as a lot of the nearby restaurants were unable to open due to power cuts and flooding. Really disappointing way to end my time here!


Monday, 10 August 2015

(just touched down in) London-town

My first official stop in Europe was London. I had an easy Malaysian Airlines flight from KL to Heathrow on the brilliant A380 with a row to myself.,

I got off the plane and made my way to the tube heading down to my hostel near Kings Cross Station. The tube got pretty packed out by the time I arrived, surprisingly more packed than trains even in Tokyo!

I checked into the hostel, Clink78, orientated for a little before heading across the road for a kebab for dinner. Bar the Rusty Keyhole ribs in Kampot, Cambodia, it was the most meat I'd had in a single meal in the last six months...

I had a beer at the bar with a friend from back home who happened to be around for one night in London at the same time before crashing out for the next twelve hours.

The hostel was pretty cool, situated in an old court house. It was, however, the biggest hostel I've ever stayed in, apparently housing some 700 guests!



===

Mum and dad were flying out to meet me the next day - they planned a four week trip through south of England and France - so I decided to wait at their hotel for them and surprise them.

While waiting I went for a venture through Kensington Park, nearby their hotel. It featured a bunch of statues paying tribute to different figures, fountains, water features and the like.




After waiting a good two hours they rocked up ... immigration at Heathrow apparently can get busy. We went out for a steak (more meat!) before they crashed out from the long journey over.

===

The next day I caught up with my parents again to check out the Westminster area, doing the touristy sight-seeing stuff, checking out the London eye and Big Ben. There was some bicycle race on at the same time so the area was totally packed out; walking the bridge was a mission!


===

I had two guided tours organised by my parents to join them for - Windsor Castle and Buckingham Palace. Unfortunately inside both you cannot take photos so I don't have a lot to add here.

Windsor Castle was interesting, overlooking London from atop a hill 20 miles west of the centre. The idea was that they would see any potential attackers coming from a distance and the hill is more difficult to scale than flat land.



Buckingham Palace was very impressive inside. The ball room featured forty metre high ceilings adorned with great detail and design. Everything is extremely grandiose as you would expect from a long running monarchy.

===

I did not really feel like I did much in London, more just wanting to relax in a Western city for a little while. I plan on heading back there after some time in Europe so do not feel as though I was missing out!

My opinion of the city is not that great though. It is a massive, busy city with a very large number of foreigners. It might have been because of the area that I spent most of my time, but more people I saw were tourists or other ethnicities rather than actual English people!

The public transport system in London is great, when it works. The night bus network is excellent, if not expensive. However, the tube in my short experience was not the most reliable service getting around! For two days the one line connecting my hostel and my parents hotel was out of commission, and the day that I had to leave London, the employees for the tube had gone on strike making my early journey to the airport that little bit more painful!

I still will go back and check out the more trendy areas and see if I can get a better sense of the city to improve my perception! Or maybe I'm just not a big city kind of guy...

Tuesday, 28 July 2015

South East Asia - a reflection

As I write this I sit in a hostel in Kuala Lumpur, on my last night in Asia after more than six months backpacking through. Tomorrow I fly out to London to begin the Europe portion of my adventure!

During the 184 days I have been travelling, I have covered 7 different countries, stayed in 50 cities and towns, covered 34,112 km in travel distance, made friends with countless amazing people, seen and done so many incredible things, learnt a lot about myself and the different countries I visited and eaten way too much rice and noodles.


Singapore

My first stop, Singapore, was a good transitional few days - going from home to a not-so-different-from-home country was a good start. The two things I enjoyed most about Singapore was the cityscape - having a drink at the Marina Bay Sands overlooking the awesome skyline was a great night - and BetelBox hostel's food tour was a tremendous indulgence in Singaporean cuisine.


Favourite city: Singapore (duh)
Favourite hostel: Betelbox (once again, only saw one)
Favourite dish: Chilli Crab

Malaysia

While I only really saw Kuala Lumpur on my first trip to Malaysia, it is a great city to visit. The highlight for Malaysia however was actually the hostel - Reggae Mansions. This renowned party hostel still holds a special place for me, with its great rooftop bar and amazing hostel amenities.

The night I spent out at the Helipad bar was also very memorable day. Having undistrubed, outdoor 360 degree views of the skyline was unbeatable. 




City: Kuala Lumpur
Hostel: Reggae Mansions
Dish: Nasi Lemak

Japan

Without any doubt, Japan is still my favourite country I have visited in Asia. While having spent a total of six weeks there (four on my first trip and two this trip), I still cannot wait to go back and see more of this crazy, unique and beautiful country. 

One of the best days of my entire trip was in Japan - visiting the snow town of Yuzawa. This was the first proper time I had ever seen and touched snow in my life, and is a day I will always cherish. Ascending to the top of the skiing mountain and looking out over the rolling snow covered mountains while I drank a beer was just mind-blowing. 



City: Osaka
Hostel: J-Hoppers Osaka
Dish: Katsu-don

Thailand

Thailand is a backpacking Mecca. I would struggle to think of anyone I have met that has been to South East Asia without spending time Thailand. The country thrives on Western tourism, and as a result, backpacking through is effortless. In the large number of popular tourist cities, everyone speaks English, it's easy to get around and there is always plenty to do. 

The highlights for me in Thailand are many. Firstly, Koh Tao and diving. I never would have thought that I would enjoy learning to scuba dive so much; flying out I had no real intention of doing it, mainly due to cost, but given my wonderful parents paid for it as my birthday present, it was a chance I'm glad I got. It is really another world down there, and with every dive I have done I have been enjoying it more and more!



Secondly, riding the Mae Hong Son loop on my rented CRF250 motorbike. This was both another fantastic way of seeing the beautiful northern Thailand scenery, but also incredible fun. Stopping at the waterfall on the way from Mae Hong Son town to Pai and holding a gibbon was one of the most surreal experiences I have had this trip. 



Scaling the Sathorn Unique ghost tower was easily the best thing I got to do in Bangkok. The fact that there is a totally derelict abandoned skyscraper that you can bribe the security to visit is awesome.


While it wasn't one of the best nights I had in Thailand, I have to mention the Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan. Being able to party with a few of my closest friends from back home in a crazy eclectic environment will not go unforgotten. 

I also have to mention the food. Nowhere I've visited in South East Asia has food that can come close to Thai food. After spending two months in Vietnam I went back to Thailand and ordered a fried rice (like I had done in Vietnam), and was blown away - it was an explosion of flavour compared to Vietnamese fried rice!


City: Pai
Hostel: Spicypai
Dish: Thai Green Curry

Cambodia

Cambodia is noticeably the poorest country I have visited in South East Asia, but despite this fact the people are both very happy and friendly. Those that can speak English are always joking around with tourists, not taking life too seriously, which I enjoyed. 

While Angkor Wat was great to see and its surrounding temples exciting to explore, it was not what I look back on the most when I think of Cambodia. Funnily enough, my birthday on the Siem Reap Pub Crawl was one of the best memories I have of Cambodia. The games that the organisers made people play were both crude and hilarious, and a lot of free drinks were consumed... "can I have a free bucket for my birthday?" ... "alright, sure".


Secondly, the beaches in Cambodia are just stunningly beautiful. I rate the beaches in Cambodia much higher than any I have seen in Thailand; the water is just too perfect, the scenery and sunsets just too breathtaking to pass up seeing. I have also never been so relaxed as I was on Koh Ta Kiev, the stunning undeveloped island adorned by cheap beach hut bungalows.



A worthwhile mention was the Killing Fields audio tour outside of Phnom Penh. This was a truly eye-opening look into what was going on in the world so recently - the total relentless brutality that was completely hidden from the West is crazy to consider. 

City: Sihanoukville
Hostel: Indigo on Otres
Dish: Mango Salad

Vietnam

Vietnam is a spectacular country to visit, and was very easy to find myself spending two whole months there. The street food is unbeatable - Banh Mi baguettes! - and the landscapes and scenery are truly breathtaking. Vietnam is also the cheapest country I visited in SEA - ridiculously cheap beers (even free in Hanoi!), cheap tasty food and dirt cheap hotels to be found throughout the country.

The Honda Win. Vietnam was the country that I learned to ride a motorbike on and I was instantly in love. The freedom gained from riding a motorbike from the south to the north of the country cannot be matched. Being alone out on the open roads with nothing but your music and your thoughts was a great time for me on the trip. You are also put in places that far less tourists would visit, as you ride through small country towns and stop in hotels for somewhere to sleep; this enables a far greater appreciation for how the people of the country actually react towards foreigners, rather than being inundated by tourists, you are a novelty for these people.






Canyoning in Dalat was definitely a highlight for me, beside riding the bike through. Abseiling down a 30m waterfall while getting pummeled with water was exhilarating. Dalat itself is also an awesome town; plenty of tasty places to eat and drink, great climate being higher up in the mountains (it was actually cool at night!), and a bunch of cool stuff to see.


City: Dalat
Hostel: Easy Tiger
Dish: Banh Mi

Laos

While I didn't spend all that much time in Laos, the time I did spend there was great fun. The country is actually more expensive than I would have thought, with accommodation, food and drinks all costing more than Thailand for the most part. That said, I am very glad I went! 

Ziplining through the jungle on the Gibbon Experience was simply incredible. Spending the day soaring through the air, sometimes hundreds of metres above the ground, and the night staying in a treehouse some forty metres up is a childhood dream come true.


Tubing in Laos is also some of the most fun I have had this trip. Floating down the river on a truck inner tube, only to be pulled into a bar and drinking yourself silly with 150+ other backpackers is definitely a great day out!


City: Vang Vieng
Hostel: Treehouse on the Gibbon Experience
Dish: Chicken Sandwich

==

Looking back, I have had an incredible six months. I wouldn't change what I have done for anything and have absolutely no regrets about quitting my job and leaving my safe lifestyle behind. Travel really is the one thing you spend money on that makes you richer. 

I cannot wait to see what Europe and the rest of the year has to offer!

A Small Taste of Sabah

I flew from Bangkok to Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah, Malaysian-Borneo.

I don't really have all that much to write about for here unfortunately. After arriving in KK my cold from earlier in Bangkok started to re-emerge and I was feeling pretty shit.

I spent three nights on a beach resort, a one and a half hour drive from KK. I spent most of that time in bed sleeping, instead of out in the water diving like I would have liked!

Still, the place and view was nice. (When the generator was on and there was electricity...)


===

From here I went back to KK for one night before making the journey across the state to Sandakan, home of the Sepilok Orang-utan rehabilitation centre for drug addict apes orphaned orang-utans. This was a good opportunity to see orang-utans in a semi-natural environment. They are awesome animals, leisurely swinging around and forward-rolling along the ground.


===

After Sandakan I headed back to KK to finally do some diving! I was taken out to an island off the coast near KK, where the majority of the dive shops operate from. Unfortunately my GoPro needs repair and I couldn't get any footage of the dives.

I did my first beach dive, wading in from the beach and making our way out to deeper waters. I saw what is up there with the coolest thing I'd seen diving; stingrays would bury themselves in the sand, upon swimming near them they would rustle off the sand and start swimming away. I'd never seen so many stingrays out in the open before!

The second dive was off a small boat, very different to what I'm used to diving off in Koh Tao. Once more, my first backward seated entry into the water. From here we swam around a man-made pontoon surrounded by corals. I didn't really see all that much on this dive unfortunately.

===

My last day in Sabah was spent in my hostel... getting a tattoo!

I finally decided to get what I had wanted since I started riding the bike through Vietnam - a Honda Win tattoo! It was a little painful at times, but for $50aud I'm happy with it!



Sunday, 26 July 2015

Getting High in Bangkok

Upon arriving in Bangkok I was starting to feel a little under the weather... I checked into a hostel with Luke to just chill out and recover for a few days after a pretty full-on past month.

I went shopping; had my phone fixed finally after dropping it in Vietnam almost three months earlier. I went to the cinema. I watched Wimbledon.

Luke was meeting up with his girlfriend in a couple days and our time traveling together was coming to an end so we decided to go check out the tallest building in Thailand - the 84 storey Baiyoke Sky Tower.


The quickest way to get there was from a BTS skytrain stop and walking along the abandoned railway tracks, which are surrounded by small slum-like sheds that people lived in.

We got to the base of the building and it was packed out - all of a sudden there were near on 100 Asian tourists. We paid our 400 baht entry fee and ascended to the 75th floor observation area. We just missed sunset.


Our ticket to the top included a free cocktail in the 76th floor bar - not too shabby!


From here we went up to the revolving outdoor skydeck to take in a full 360 degree view of Bangkok in its entirety. It is impressive to say the least.



===

After Luke had pissed off I had a few days left before my flight to Sabah, Malaysian-Borneo. I wasn't feeling all that motivated to travel to a new city for a few days so decided to check back in to one of the first hostels in Thailand I stayed in - Bodega Bangkok.

I rocked up and quickly recognised the bearded face of one of the brother-owners. "How's your travels?" he asked. Shocked, he remembered my stay there from way back in early March.

I spent the next three nights back at what would have to be one of my favourite hostels in Thailand. The social atmosphere made it easy to quickly make new friends with those staying there.

I managed to convince a few of the guys from the hostel - two London blokes, another pommie bird and an American dude from San Fran - to join me on the only thing left in Bangkok I wanted to see... the infamous Ghost Tower. 

The Sathorn Unique Tower is a skyscraper that began construction in 1990 ... and to this date was never finished. A financial crisis in 1997 halted construction at about the 80% mark and the building has not been sold, demolished or completed ever since. 


As it is still owned by someone, security are paid to watch the building around the clock. 500 baht however, will make them look the other way.

Entering off a dodgy little alley way, a Thai guard opens a cutout in the fence and lets us in. Speaking to the man in charge, we each hand over 500 baht and they show us to the staircase and tell us to be back in two hours.

We arrived just after dark - not ideal but still very cool; no one else was in the stairwell or on any of the floors.

The stairwell is lit by a hanging fluro every few floors, but most of the light is from flashlight. Previous adventurers had graffiti-ed eerie slogans on a few of the floors...


Others went for the more arty approach...


As you ascend, you can see the level of development on the floors diminish. Lower down the tower there are bathroom fittings and balcony's ... the higher up you get more sacks of concrete and raw building materials.


Eventually we reached the top of the building, 50 floors up. Walking out what looks like a crypt we emerge out into the open air roof of the building...





The walls on the roof are littered with more graffiti - people making their mark on this surreal structure.


I bought up a backpack with a couple beers, to sit and relax after the long sweaty hike to the top and take in the sights of Bangkok.


On the way down we explored more of the building. One room was filled with bathtubs that were never fitted...


Others simply more graffiti...


And others a little more disturbing...


From what I am told the building gets it nickname Ghost Tower from the fact that a tourist hung himself here a few years back.

All aside, it was an awesome adventure hiking to the top of a derelict building in Bangkok!