Farewell J-Hoppers!

Thursday morning was another one of Mr Yano's excellent morning walking tours. Our group consisted of Fitzey and I, a Vietnamese guy Tom and an Australian girl from Brisbane, Eloise.

I had been on this same tour years ago - we talked through Temma and its shopping areas, with most of what was told I had already heard. 

We went into a little food shop and I had to buy what looked like a japanese parmigiana. It turned out to be a crumbed meat patty topped with tomato paste and cheese; almost tasted like home!

The tour usually involves visiting the Osaka Housing and Living Museum; something I remember doing quite well last time. To my pleasure it was actually closed on the day of the tour - awesome because it meant I didnt need to spend the 600 yen doing something I had already done and didn't enjoy that much the first time around!

As an alternative, we walked around a few local streets in Osaka and Mr Yano described some of the housing.

The tour concluded at an okonomiyaki restaurant. This one was very cool because you actually got to make your own. The table of five was presented with three steel jugs; we were told to mix thoroughly and pour onto the hot plate. Each one was then topped with a rasher of bacon. 

After letting them sit for a little, we were given utensils to flip them, much in the same way you would an omelette. After letting sit for a little while and a few more flips, the lady from the restuarant came over and topped them with "okonomiyaki sauce" and mayo - curiously tasting exactly the same as the "takoyaki sauce". Some type of fish flakes were then added and let to sit, and the result was amazing.

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Friday I had planned to meet up with Ellie to go get Kobe Beef in Kobe - something I had done last time and was very keen to go back. Fitzey wasnt interested in spending the 3,150 yen given he'd also already had it, so I was very glad to find someone to go with!

Once again going to Steak Land, the result was worthwhile. The meat just melts in your mouth and you cannot help but savour every single bite. It is truly incredible meat. 

The two of us then wandered around Kobe some more; something I didnt do much of last visit. Its actually a very nice city, essentially divided up between the mountain side and the harbour side. To the north is a beautiful array of mountains and to the south a large shipping port and shopping area - very cool.

We went up a government building to the 24th floor to check out the view, a great free activity.

We walked around some more, checked out a few shops, and finished up by checking out the "japanese iron man" statue - Tetsujin. 

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We had to check out of J-Hoppers today as all availability was booked out. Like last time, it was a fantastic stay at the hostel, in many part thanks to the awesome staff working there, and the resulting great crowd of people that it attracts!

I visited Hiroshima, making the use of the seven day rail pass we activated yesterday. On my last visit I didnt make it into Hiroshima itself so was interested to see the Peace Park Memorial and A-Bomb Dome. 

Unfortunately every three years the A-Bomb Dome undergoes a surveyance and is covered in scaffolding, to ensure that it is kept in a perpetual state of repair. I guess that is fair enough given that sixty years earlier an atomic bomb was dropped six hundred metres above the building and all that stands today is an unrestored damaged building - very interesting stuff.

The Peace Park Museum was a rather harrowing experience. Walking through in near total silence you were able to see old articles of clothing and other objects recovered from the blast. There was a wealth of information including the impact of the bomb on people and buildings and how many people died as a result - 200,000.

We caught the train back to Osaka after grabbing a quick bite to eat, and have now checked into a Capsule Hotel in a different district - Shinsaibashi. 

Tonight has been a night of recovery and relaxation. The last few days have been pretty hectic so it has been a good chance to catch up on blogging and do the washing!

Tomorrow we are off to check out the Osaka Auto Messe car show - I can't wait!

Only in Japan

Yesterday I was invited to go to an "owl cafe" by Haley from the hostel. Apparently it was a place you could go drink and there were owls perched around the place to pet and hold.

For 1300 yen (around $14AUD) you get a beer and you can sit down for an hour in this little room full of owls. Only in Japan.

This was my first real experience being up close with owls and I have to say, they are fucking intimidating creatures. 

You were able to walk around the different perches in which the owls were tethered down to and pet them, either on their beak or their head depending on the breed of owl, very cool.

It must have been feeding time while we were there because these owls had dead mice that they were just devouring.. brutal stuff. 

That night I went on another of Mr Yano's tours; this time to a takoyaki shop. 600 yen bought all you can eat takoyaki; a good meal for the night.

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Today Fitzey and I, in a hungover state from a late night drinking with people from the hostel, decided to hire bikes and cruise around Osaka. One of the main points of interest to ride to was the Osaka Castle - a castle built in the 1500's - which was very cool.

We rode around through the streets of Osaka which was a great experience in itself. Bikes are so common in Japan and everyone is very accepting of cyclists, getting out the way wherever possible.

We got to the castle and were feeling hungry. Outside there was an okonomiyaki stall set up; an Osakan food that can only really be described as a cabbage based omelette. Not exactly sure what was in it, but either way it was veeery tasty.

The castle itself was very impressive. You can go inside the castle for the museum and see all types of ancient historical art from between 1500 and 1700 - scrolls and paintings in particular. 

The view from the top, 6th floor, was beautiful. 

That evening we met up with Rowan who'd we had been hanging out with for a chunk of our time in Osaka and hit up the Umeda Sky Building, which offers fantastic outdoor 360 degree views of the city.

The night ended like most nights so far in Osaka - chatting to people from the hostel and drinking. Good times and good people. 

From Familiar to New

Today was about new experiences.

I was standing at the 7-Eleven around the corner from my hostel - a thirty second walk away - looking to buy some instant noodles for lunch.

I turned around and noticed outside, to my amazement, it was snowing. Never in my life have I seen actual snowflakes falling from the sky. As fast as I could I ran out the 7-Eleven into the street and just stood in awe - it was snowing. I literally had tears forming in my eyes from the happiness I was experiencing; I was like a child.

I quickly ran back to the hostel to find Mathew, who similarly had never seen snow before either. We just ran out into the street and stood in absolute amazement.

In the photo above it was just tiny specs, but in person it was just flying through the sky - incredible.

People from the hostel saw us and were just bewildered at how happy this tiny bit of snow made us, but it really did.

I had no real plans for the rest of the day. I got talking to a Canadian bloke, Nathan; he planned to check out an onsen hot spring. I figured why not, I'll tag along to check it out. It has been something I have wanted to do since my first trip to Japan but never got around to it.

Fitzey, who has a number of tattoos, was not allowed to join us so I had to ditch him to go check this out. Tattoos are very taboo in Japan; historically it was only the Yakuza gangsters who had tattoos and they are still very traditional about it - not allowed in onsen.

We jumped on a local train and a bus and after getting lost a little and wandering around asking people we managed to find our destination - Naniwanoyu.

Our first guess to where this place was turned out to be a funeral parlour, not exactly where we were trying to get to. It was still very cool to see; the detail on this casket was incredible.

A little more wandering we came across a little Shiba Inu tied up in the street - a Japanese breed of dog. He was so cute I had to stop and pet him, absolutely beautiful dog and very friendly. 

Eventually we made it to the hot spring. It was on the 8th floor of a building. 

Going into it I knew a little about what I was in for. It was a male only separated bath and you have to be completely naked. 

Walking in you find a locker, take off all your clothes and go into the bathing section. Both Nathan and I had no real idea what we were doing but just worked it out. First up you must wash yourself; sit on a little chair and use a shower hose to wash yourself with the provided shower gel.

Following that we wandered into the outdoor area, where we found a few different baths. I was pretty keen to just jump in. Being exposed like that is pretty new to me and all the Japanese guys were staring - we were the only white guys in the whole place, with not a word of English uttered. 

We spent the next 45 minutes relaxing in this bath, talking about travel and life in general. You meet so many great people travelling, everyone has their story but we all have the same motive and passion which is a good point of discussion. 

After, we moved to a little round hot tub style bath that you can just lay in and relax. I just stared up at the sky, freezing cold outside but enjoying the warmth and relaxation from the constantly flowing water. The scenery in this outdoor area was amazing - traditional Japanese trees and music quietly playing in the background.

Obviously photography isnt allowed in these so the photos above are from Google, but it gives a good idea of what it was like!

We left and headed back to the hostel after grabbing a quick bite to eat just outside the onsen.

Back at the hostel we met a Japanese guy from the Fukushima area who was wanting to learn English. He had only been learning for a month but his English was already quite impressive. He took us to a local izakaya (small pub with food and drinks), where he ordered a number of dishes for us and drinks to go with. 

Spent the the night talking to the American girl, Haley, and the kiwi dude Rowan we met the night before. Nathan had a flight to Bangkok and left after a beer - he was kind enough to give me his big jacket that he had no need for as next stop was the heat of South East Asia, should come in handy!

No idea what I'll be up to tomorrow, but thats the beauty of hostel life, you can meet people and do things you wouldnt have expected!

Back to where it all began

Thursday morning, after a less than comfortable 5 hour Air Asia flight we landed in Kansai International Airport, just out of Osaka.

As soon as we took off I think I passed out on the plane for a few hours, waking up with a terribly sore neck; air travel sucks.

Paid around $20 for a one day rail pass to get from Osaka to Kyoto on the limited express train (next fastest after the Shinkansen) and after an hour or so we were in Kyoto.

I decided that while we have the day rail pass we should check out Nara, a town just outside of Kyoto known for its temple and its deer. It was well worth the trip; its beautiful.

The deer here seemed very friendly towards me; I could happily go up to one and start petting it and take a photo with it! Quite a few people made the mistake of feeding the deer however; as soon as you have food they become a lot less docile! Plenty of people were being bitten at as they try to get the food!

Fitzey and I then checked out Tofukiji; the home to the biggest wooden statue of Buddha in the world. For perspective, its ear is two metres tall! The temple housing it is incredible.

We topped off the night with some sake back at the hostel.. which escalated to a much bigger bottle of what I thought to be sake but actually wasnt...

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After spending most of the day resting up Friday trying to fight off a cold developing, I was keen to get out and see things on Saturday.

Last time I was in Kyoto I really wanted to see the Golden Temple but never made it; I was sure to do so this time around and was not disappointed; it was spectacular!

That night our hostel threw a Takoyaki party. Takoyaki is a battered mix cooked into a ball, usually containing octopus. 

I tried it once at the airport on my last trip and after trying to pick it up and seeing a big tentacle staring up at me was incredibly put off, without actually eating it. I am willing to try anything once so I gave it another go!

I have a problem with octopus after my last trip and trying octupus sashimi - raw octopus - but to my delight it isnt so bad when cooked properly into takoyaki balls. I ate a handful and cooked some too, definitely a worthwhile experience!

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Sunday was our last day in Kyoto.. next stop Osaka - my favourite city!

Fitzey and I hopped on the train with a known destination for me; Fukushima Station and J-Hoppers Hostel in Osaka - my very first hostel that I still hold very dear.

Even after two and a half years I managed to navigate back to the hostel without too much drama (we got off at the wrong stop... twice).

We spent the night with the local tour guide once again, Mr Yano. Our group consisted of Fitzey and I, a kiwi bloke, an American girl, a Melbournian dude and two ladies from Adelaide. Crazy to meet people from our home town 7750km away!

Kanpai!